A Land Flowing with Water

The north of Israel is dramatically different from the south. For most purposes in the Bible, a place called Dan is the top of Israel, the northern border of the “Dan to Beersheba” boundaries. We came to this site about a month after our Negev trip. Upon arriving, we ambled through a beautiful nature reserve to see the ancient ruins. Along the way, we saw the spring where the Jordan River Begins. It flows at a rate of 5,000 gallons per second.

Flowing water from the Dan spring rushes south towards the Jordan

The cultic site at Dan was found in the middle of a clearing. There was a low, square wall made of big blocks. In the center was a metal structure in the shape of a four horned altar. It was bigger than any altar I have seen. I wonder how it would compare to the altar outside the temple in Jerusalem. This is one place where Jeroboam set up a golden calf so the northern ten tribes wouldn’t worship in Jerusalem but in his own territory. He was afraid that their allegiance would be drawn down to Judah. He also set up an altar in Bethel, near the southern border of his kingdom.

Our guide points out our location on a map in
front of a model of Jeroboam's alter 

Jeroboam’s idolatry started a pattern that kings followed for the rest of the northern kingdom's existence. It was birthed from one man’s fear and forgetfulness of God’s promise. Ignoring and sinning against God devastates our own lives and future generations. As we neglect to worship God, we put more trust in our own reason and let that dictate our decisions. Eventually we end up worshiping gods of our own creation, thinking they will provide the solution. The slide into idolatry usually starts from “reasonable” beginnings.

From Dan we went to another nearby site full of false worship. Caesarea Philippi also flows with springs which funnel into the Jordan. These emanate from a cliff face that has several temples etched into the stone. There was a temple to Pan and another one to Augustus. One cave near the bottom of the cliff had a large opening. It was known by some as a portal to Hades. Today these are just ruins, but some foundations and lower structures are still partially standing. Fragments of pillars or wall ceramics lie strewn on the ground. 

Caesarea Philippi appears in the Bible in Matthew 16. In this chapter, Jesus comes into the region of the city and asks his disciples who others say the son of man is. “Some say John the Baptist, others say Elijah, and others Jeremiah or one of the prophets” the disciples answer (v. 14 ESV). Then Jesus asks them who they say he is. Peter makes a famous confession that Jesus is the Messiah, the Son of the living God (v. 16). It’s significant that Peter would say this in this specific location because Caesarea Philippi was dedicated to Caesar Augustus who was called “son of God” since his ancestor Julius Caesar was deified after death. Jesus’ response also holds special significance based on the location. He tells Peter that he is blessed because God revealed this truth to him. “And I also say to you that you are Peter, and on this rock I will build my church; and the gates of Hades will not overpower it" (v. 18b LSB). We don’t know exactly where Jesus said this, but the nearby portal to Hades must have been on Jesus’ mind when he responded. 

The ancient temples of Caesarea Philippi. The "portal" to Hades is the dark whole on the left

Seeing such physical reminders made me realize how important an event like this would be. Jesus went on to declare that he would die and be raised up on the third day. In the backdrop of pagan temples and monuments, I felt the weight of Jesus' words. The futility of these idols reminds me of Isaiah 44:18-20: “They do not know, nor do they understand, for He has smeared over their eyes so that they cannot see and their hearts so that they will have no insight. No one causes this to return to his heart, nor is there knowledge or understanding to say, 'I have burned half of it in the fire and also have baked bread over its coals. I roast meat and eat it. Then I make the rest of it into an abomination; I fall down before a block of wood!' He feeds on ashes; a deceived heart has turned him aside. And he cannot deliver his soul, and he cannot say, 'Is there not a lie in my right hand?'"

    Jesus is no idol like the ones pagans worship, he is not served through the likes of the golden calf Jeroboam set up at Dan. David tells us that He does not delight in burnt offerings, but desires a broken and contrite spirit (Psalm 51:16-17)

After a morning of teaching, we were ready for some fun. Our group returned on the bus and headed down to the Jordan River where we went on a rafting trip. It wasn’t quite white water—the Jordan isn’t known for having the cleanest water—but we made it as exciting even so. Six of us wrangled with two oars made for kayaks. We splashed others and raced to the end. Looking back, I saw one of the groups had dropped their oar. For I while I didn’t know if they would be able to retrieve it. It was just out of reach and they were moving away swiftly. Eventually, one of the guys jumped out and saved the oar. I also got in, but not because I had to. I wanted to feel the water. It was cold, but not freezing. Along the way, we saw some fishermen with their poles dangling into the water. To me, it seemed like an average river. And yet this is the same river that John the Baptist baptized Jesus in. It is the same river that was made dry ground when the Israelites crossed into the Promised Land. Thousands of years ago, Jesus took fishermen in the Sea of Galilee and made them His followers. It’s not every day that I can float in a river like this.